News from North Pond


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

September
2007

 

News From North Pond

We look forward to cooler days and brisker evenings this month, but hopefully not so brisk as to hard-frost all the wonderful remnants of summer's bounty.  Here are some not-so-edible notes and events at which you might certainly consume and quaff some of the lingering and new goodness of the seasons:

·      School's back in session this month, and that means there are only a few short weeks left of lunch service here on the pond. We shift to Wednesday-Friday lunch service for the month, before we shut it down until June, so hurry in to enjoy our award-winning cheeseburger or our other delicacies before it all goes buh--bye 'til next summer!  (Of course, we continue to offer our Sunday brunch all year).

·      There's still time to buy tickets to the September 9th annual market dinner in the country at Bill Kurtis's and Donna LaPietra's beautiful Mettawa property. 

·      In conjunction with the Green City Market, we'll offer Locavore options on the menu the week of September 10.  We'll accept the challenge to cook some truly "local" dishes for those of you looking to honor your pledge for the week.

·      On Saturday, September 15, through a multi-pronged partnership with Slow Food (one of those prongs belonging to Chefs Collaborative), Slow Food Madison (WI) will hold a RAFT (Renewing America's Food Traditions) picnic on the steps of the capitol building. Consider heading up north this weekend to enjoy this one-time special event.  For more information, click here.

·      On Friday, September 28, I'll be cooking at a James Beard House dinner hosted at the Signature Room here in Chicago.  The dinner's part of a nationwide fundraiser weekend put on by the Beard House. For more information on the dinner, click here:  Signature Room and on the weekend's nationwide events: Taste America

·      And before I get lost in the hoopla of the upcoming Bears season - which kicks off September 9 - take a moment to bask in the (unusual) glow of the Cubs' continued contention for the division AT THIS LATE STAGE OF THE SEASON. Hey, Hey, holy cow!

 

Tips from the Green Market

 

Hot days and warm nights will (hopefully) transition into warm days and cool nights by the end of the month.  The marvelous tomatoes we'll enjoy through the middle of September will eventually lose -alas-their super flavorful nature and begin to change back into but a respectable seasonal tomato again.  Go to the market and snap up and enjoy those last-of-the-summer goodies before they turn back into pumpkins -literally-at the first hard frost.  And this can occur at any time. Beware.

The early days of Autumn are a great time to consider incorporating fennel into your meals.  After a seasonal hiatus - from late spring/early summer -the return of the slightly milder September temperatures allows the vegetable to flourish again.  And its perfumy hint of anise, especially in the wild variety, makes fennel an ideal seafood companion or candidate for the outdoor grill.  Here at the restaurant, we're currently sautéeing it briefly with dry-cured sausage and then serving it under an arugula-crusted wild salmon with roasted red bell pepper coulis.  Most of the vegetable can be used for various preparations: bulb for shaving, braising or grilling; stalks for soups, stocks or stuffings; fronds for purees, pestos and oils. But best of all, (only) wild fennel produces an unbelievably sweet and fragrant edible flower, a.k.a. fennel pollen. Ohmygosh this stuff is good.  A floral encapsulation of licorice and sugar with a hint of fresh celery, this stuff can (and should) be sprinkled on all sorts of foods, raw and cooked, to take them to the next level.

 

Drink of the Month
The Grape Sage

Pack a bunch of juicy grapes into the kids' lunch boxes, then enjoy this grown-up version as your own little back-to-school celebration.


Sage Gin Infusion:

1 c        Juniper Green Organic Gin, or your favorite gin

3 T        fresh sage leaves, finely chopped

 

Stir finely chopped sage into gin and let sit at room temperature four hours, stirring occasionally. Strain gin and reserve.

 

Drink:

1½  oz  Sage gin (see above)

1½  oz  100% Concord grape juice

½           lime, juiced
3            sm. Concord grapes, frozen

 

Combine gin, grape juice, and lime juice. Shake well. Serve "up" in martini glass, garnished with three frozen grapes.

 

Farm of the Month
Brunkow Cheese, Darlington, Wisc.

This month's "farm" is actually a Wisconsin creamery, originally designed as a co-op of dairy farms way back in 1899. Today, Brunkow cheese is still crafted according to the craft and tradition of Old World techniques, and is created from the milk of 18-20 neighborhood dairy farms in the rolling hills of southwest Wisconsin.  Here at the restaurant, we top our award-winning lunchtime cheeseburger with Brunkow's tangy three-year raw milk cheddar.  Come visit Joe at the Green City Market to buy some for home or to try many of the other wonderful artisanal cheeses available each week.

 

Watch Our Garden Grow!

      

 

 

sage                             basil

 

Tips from the Fish and Meat Market
Snap it up!
 

This month we (briefly) talk about a fabulous summer fish, snapper. Many familiar with the most common variety, Red Snapper, don't realize how endangered gulf and south American reds are.  The ocean stocks are depleted and this specific variety continues to be overfished by fishermen who oftentimes are targeting another population but ensnare immature reds in their nets.  One solution, surely, is to refrain from buying American reds altogether, but another is to ask your fishmonger further questions to determine catch methodology and origin, as certain types of fishing -hand lining, for example-are responsible options.

Here at the restaurant, we're currently offering grilled Vermillion Snapper, which we source from family fisherman in the West Indies. We're serving it grilled over bacon-wilted Puntarella greens, with minted charred tomato compote and apples. 

For more info on snapper; and to read an article on the complexities of sourcing seafood responsibly, download this file here.

 

Charity of the Month
The Enterprising Kitchen 773-506-3880

Each year, we accumulate donations through our wine program for four deserving organizations. Their inclusion on our list is based on their work to help preserve diverse food choices, contribute to the local community, support local farmers, and help commit to a more sustainable future. Though this particular organization is not currently on our list, it's doing great work to support Chicagoland women.

This nonprofit social enterprise, founded in 1996, provides workforce development and support services to women who are working toward self-sufficiency and economic independence. The women are part of a successful business manufacturing natural soaps and spa products, while receiving intensive workforce training in all aspects of the business. All TEK products are manufactured in small batches, using high-quality ingredients, at their Chicago facility. Most women in the program, having previously been underemployed, move into sustainable employment after 6-12 months. You can find TEK's exceptional products at many local retail stores, as well as on their website store.

 

 

Fennel, Carrot & Autumn Apple Slaw, Lemon Vinaigrette
Serves six

 

1          bulb      fennel      

3          medium carrots

            1medium apple

            1small onion (WallaWalla, Granex)

            1lemon,juiced

            1 Tchives, chopped

            1 Tparsley, chopped

            ¼         c          sliced almonds, lightly toasted

 

            Vinaigrette:

 ¼      c        lemon juice

            2          tsp       water

            1          tsp       honey

            1          tsp       whole grain mustard

            1          small garlic clove, peeled and minced

            2/3        ccanola/sunflower oil

                                    salt/pepper

 

Preparation:

  • Whisk the lemon juice, water, honey, whole grain mustard, finely minced garlic and salt and pepper together in a small bowl.  Gradually add in the oil while whisking.  Season to taste and reserve.
  • Cut both the peeled onion and the fennel in half through their roots, and place them flat on the cutting board.  Using a vegetable slicer or very sharp knife, cut each in very thin slices across the width of the piece, giving you small "crescents".  Place them -fully submerged -- in a bowl of ice water to soak.
  • Halve the peeled carrots lengthwise, and then slice (or grate) them as thinly as possible, either by hand or with the help of a vegetable slicer.  Place in a mixing bowl.
  • Quarter the apple through the core, and then remove the core.  Place the apples flesh-side down on the cutting board and slice as thinly as possible. Place in the mixing bowl.
  • Strain the fennel and onion and place in the mixing bowl as well.  Pour in enough of the prepared dressing to generously coat the vegetables, toss in the chopped parsley and chives and season to taste.
  • Place in a serving bowl and sprinkle the toasted almonds atop.

More Pithy Think Pieces

Here are a couple of thought-provoking pieces on the subject of Locavotion -- my clever noun for the whole locavore thing.  After reading these you'll discover, as with many other topics, the issues involved are hardly as straightforward as they might seem. 

Bruce Sherman

North Pond -- Chefs Collaborative -- Green City Market

773-477-5845