October. Apples. What more is there to say? This versatile fruit works well for both sweet and savory preparation. Please though, look beyond the conventional Red Delicious and Macintosh apples - as nice as they are - and try a rediscovered antique variety of our forbearers. There were upwards of 7000(!) varieties of apples growing in the 19th century; today there are fewer than 500. Some of my favorites include Cox Pippen, Spygold, Russet, Liberty, Mutsu, and Macoun. Whether you're baking a traditional pie or making the pastured pork chops from July's newsletter (couldn't help it, sorry) the diversity of textures and flavors of the bounty of apples at the market will impress you.

October's cool temperatures also bring us sweet squash, as well as hearty green leafy vegetables like lacinato kale and bietina, and wonderfully bitter-sweet radicchio. Local chestnuts from just the other side of Lake Michigan are wonderful additions to the fruit larder. Try braising them with some cipollini onions and autumn lamb, or sprinkling toasted chips over carrot soup.

October is a great time to seek out and prepare some delicious East Coast wild striped bass. One of the "poster children" for species brought back from the edge of extinction, wild striped bass are exceptional fish and are now in healthy supply and responsibly managed. The firm and moist flesh of the fish reflects both the sweetness and salinity of their travels from river to ocean, and they have the meatiness to satisfy even those who usually prefer steak or lamb. Their habitat runs up and down the East Coast, but this time of year, wild striped bass are most likely to be found in the warmer waters off Maryland or Virginia. Though farmed striped bass are a sustainable alternative, they cannot match up to the succulence and flavor of the wild child.

Each year, we accumulate donations through our wine program for four deserving organizations. Their inclusion on the list is based on their work to help preserve diverse food choices, contribute to the local community, support local farmers, and help commit to a more sustainable future. Slow Food International holds its biannual Terra Madre conference in Torino, Italy at the end of October and merits your consideration this month.

Slow Food was founded in 1986 to combat the industrialization of food - which the movement's founders feared was standardizing tastes and decreasing biological diversity. Slow Food encourages the world to slow down - to respect local food customs, the traditions of the table, and bounty of our planet. Today, the organization is active in 50 countries and has a worldwide membership of over 80,000 people. Slow Food Chicago: www.slowfoodchicago.org

As spicy or sweet as you'd like - warm up with this seasonal red wine cider.

Ingredients:

2 cups pressed, unfiltered apple cider
2 ea clove
1 ea cinnamon stick, broken
½ tsp fennel seeds
3 ea whole black peppercorns
1 pc orange zest
1/2 cup zinfandel
Your other favorite autumn spices

Preparation:

• Combine cider and spices.
• Bring to a boil. Reduce to a bare simmer for 30- 40 minutes.
• Remove from heat, strain, and add zinfandel.
• Garnish with a cinnamon stick.

Paul and Sarah Thelen farm on orchards that have been in the family for over 150 years. Although they grow many varieties of wonderful fruit on their property near St. Joseph, Michigan, they are most proud of their chestnuts and currently grow the fruit on over 1000 trees. Paul spends a great deal of his time trying to help revitalize the chestnut industry in central and northern Michigan by participating in a large-scale Michigan chestnut co-op with many other local growers. He and Sarah were college sweethearts and shared similar farming backgrounds. Today they practice their craft using Integrated Pest Management (IPM) systems and hope to one day pass on the family passion to their two daughters. Paul and Sarah can be found at the Green City Market Wednesdays and Saturdays.

In his September op-ed piece, New York Times Columnist Paul Greenberg, lifelong seafood lover and self-described "fish guy" discusses the importance of eating fish that is considered sustainable. Greenberg gives a few convenient tips for determining whether or not the fish he chooses is good for health and for the health of the ocean and the environment.