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Seasonal Chicago: Tips From
Bruce Sherman
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Welcome to the first issue of my
"Seasonal Chicago" e-newsletter. I've put together these
monthly emails as a way to inform readers of the incredible array of
seasonal foods available in and around Chicago, as well as the people
responsible for growing, producing, and distributing it. I'll also
highlight issues important to promoting sustainable, organic, artisanal
farming in the Midwest and across the
country.
Each month, I'll share tips from the green market, as well as recipes
that feature the current season's best. In the "Farm of the
Month" section, you'll learn the stories behind the food that comes
to your table and more about the families who produce it. Finally, in
each issue I'll highlight the mission of a different food-related charity
- providing a link to the organization's site. Thank you for considering
(yet) another electronic newsletter, and I look forward to seeing you at
the market!
Happy Spring!
Bruce Sherman
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Market opening this year is set for
Wednesday, the 17th of May. The first few markets of the year, though not
as abundant with the diversity of mid- summer, are particularly thrilling
as they announce the arrival of the fresh flavors and vibrant colors of
Spring! The intense emerald greens, oranges and red-hued tinges of May
bring cool fresh flavors with them. LOOK FOR peppery wild watercress,
crispy pastel “Easter egg” radishes, tender sweet baby
lettuce varieties, tangy magenta rhubarb, grassy wild asparagus, fresh
mint to accompany new red potatoes, and –if the weather cooperates—spicy-sweet
baby arugula or even pea tendrils. Yumm.
Green City Market Website
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Salmon News and Halibut Runs, Responsibly Raised
Lamb and Veal
The wild Alaskan Halibut season is
well underway and the wild King Salmon season has just begun. It's great
to be in the kitchen working with these beauties! Halibut is one of the
premier eating fish of the springtime, sustainably monitored by the
Alaskan fishery. Unfortunately, though, this year the majority of the
wild salmon fisheries in the Pacific Northwest
(OR & WA) have been closed and will remain so, due to the dangerously
high mortality rate of spawning salmon in those regions. Expect higher-
than-normal pricing on the Alaskan salmon at your favorite fishmonger.
L.A. Times - "Halibut's big
moment"
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North
Pond Julep with Fresh Spring Mint
Celebrate warmer weather with our
refreshing take on an old favorite.
5-6 sprigs mint, muddled
½ oz simple syrup
2 oz (Maker’s Mark) Bourbon
1 oz (Argyle Brut) Sparkling Wine
1 oz Fresh Squeezed Pineapple Juice
Garnish: Mint Sprig
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Chefs Collaborative is a national
network of members promoting sustainable cuisine by celebrating the joys
of local, seasonal, and artisanal cooking. The organization seeks to
support local farmers and economies - preserve diversity and traditional
practices - and educate the community on how our environment and our food
choices are connected. For more information, contact Chef's Collaborative
at 617-236-5200.
Chef's Collaborative Website
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Father and Mother, Lloyd and Doreen,
and sons Chad, Nick
and Todd farm an incredible array of vegetable and fruit varieties on
their northern Illinois
property. They - like many other of the farmers we work with - began
their professional careers in other fields (non-terrestrial!) before
gravitating to the farm. The Nichols family grows a diversity of fruit and
vegetable varieties virtually unmatched most of the local markets, some
strains in as small a quantity as one or two plants or trees. Each
Nichols family member is intimately familiar with the varieties,
textures, flavors, and growing needs of each particular vegetable and
fruit - willing and eager to tell you about each type of item.
Don’t forget to ask for a taste, too!
Nichols Farm Website
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Rhubarb Tart with Buttermilk Ice Cream
Ingredients
For tart:
1 kg rhubarb (about 15 stalks), peeled and cut into 2” batons
1/4 c sugar
1 tbl butter
2/3 c sugar
1/3 c flour, sifted
1 ea orange, zested and juiced
½ tsp cardamom powder
¼ tsp nutmeg powder
1 tsp cinnamon powder
1 ea pastry shell, pre-baked
For ice cream:
1 c heavy cream
½ c sugar
6 ea egg yolks
2 c buttermilk
1 tsp vanilla extract
Method
• In a sauté pan, cook the rhubarb sticks in the butter and
tablespoon of sugar until they just begin to soften up.
• Remove to a bowl, let cool and then combine with the other
ingredients.
• Fill a pre-baked pie shell with the cooled mixture, and if
desired, lay a lattice top over the tart.
• Paint with a beaten egg and bake in pre- heated oven at 325
degrees, 40-50 minutes, or until done.
• For the ice cream, heat cream to a boil. Combine yolks and sugar
and whip until pale yellow ribbons form.
• Temper yolks with a bit of heated cream and then reverse process
back into pan.
• Place back over moderate heat and stir constantly, until mixture
thickens and coats spoon.
• Remove from fire, strain, and cool down.
• Add the buttermilk and vanilla. Chill and freeze in machine
according to manufacturer’s directions.
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I've included below a link to a speech
made by Frederick Kirschenmann, the director of the Leopold
Center for Sustainable
Agriculture at Iowa State, at a Food Alliance banquet in Portland last
March. Dr. Kirschemann comments eloquently on how eating is one of the
most intimate acts humans know, and how dysfunctional our relationship to
the food we eat has become over the past fifty years. But more
importantly, he lays out a simple, lucid plan for how we can fix it. I
hope you will enjoy the professor's thoughts as much as I did.
Frederick Kirschenmann's Speech
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Bruce Sherman
North Pond
Restaurant - Chef's Collaborative - Green City Market
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