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News from North Pond
April 2007
News from the North Pond

More things happening this month than the days getting longer and temperatures rising:

  • Most notably, we've upgraded and have launched a brand new North Pond website!  Although we're still completing the content updates, the templates and framework are up and looking sweet.  Check us out at: www.northpondrestaurant.com

  • We've changed our house coffee blend to reflect the new direction in coffee today, away from the overly-complex multiple component blend and back to the simpler more straightforward flavors.  We're now offering a simpler blend of Colombian Tres Santos and Bolivian, still from Intelligentsia roasters here in Chicago.  Make sure to give it a try when you dine with us next time.

  • Earth Day is again upon us!  Take some time on April 22nd to do something thoughtful for the planet and celebrate all that we're so fortunate to benefit from.  Plant a tree, take a walk, clean up a park, or download, print, and talk about issues on these fun cards from our friends at Organic Valley: http://www.earthdinner.org/pdf/earth_dinner_cards.pdf

  • If you haven't already, consider celebrating Easter with us here on the Pond. We're offering an all-day special Easter brunch with an enticing menu that'll be sure to brighten up your holiday.

  • And it's not too early to make your booking for the matriarch(s) in your family. Yep, we're already half-booked for Mother's Day brunch on May 13th.  If you wait for the next newsletter's reminder, it may be too late to reserve your spot for Mom!
Farm of the Month
Upland Cheese Company
 
asparagusMike Gingrich gave up the straight and narrow path with Xerox to return to the familiar farmland on which he grew up.  He and his wife, Carol, bought a small 30-cow farm in southwestern Wisconsin and began making a Beaufort-style cheese the old-fashioned way, by rotationally grazing their milking herd.

Today, they live on a 10-acre parcel attached to their larger 300-acre farm, but they happily haven't changed a thing in how they make their remarkable Pleasant Ridge Reserve, still entirely on-site. 

This exceptional raw milk cheese is made only when the cows are on full pasture, giving it a characteristic depth of flavor that naturally showcases the unique quality of their milk. We're proud to have been working with Mike ever since he first sampled his cheese out of crumbly brown paper bags at the winter farm market back in 2000!  Today, we like to incorporate the Pleasant Ridge anywhere we can.

Uplands Cheese Company

Charity of the Month
Oliver's Kitchen
773-252-3663   

Oliver's Kitchen is one of the many programs organized by The Chicago Anti-Hunger Federation. Participants are trained for lifetime careers in the food service industry. The course teaches the students how to prepare and present complete meals, from appetizer to dessert. In addition, the main kitchen instructor lectures on subjects including nutrition, weights and measures, and buying provisions for restaurants.

The ultimate goal of the program is to secure employment for the underemployed and unemployed, so a Community Liaison assists graduates in finding full-time jobs and is a support line for two years after graduation. The program also links employment skills and placement with supportive services and housing. Oliver's Kitchen partners with the food service industry, government, and social service providers to accomplish goals through education and training.

Oliver's Kitchen

Watch Our Garden Grow!
 
Here at North Pond, we take great care with our kitchen garden. Each month, we'll update you here with the progress.
 
asparagus
 
 
 asparagus
 
 
asparagus
 
Tips from the Green Market
Signs of Spring
asparagus
 

Prior and Wood are injured again and the Cubs open at Wrigley April 9.  It must finally be Spring!

Although we're still six+ weeks' away from the home opener of the Green City Market (May 16), we're clearly thinking green here at the restaurant.  And I'm not talking about our recycling program, but about early spring vegetables.  The end of this month should bring us the first domestic green asparagus as well as field-grown Northwest rhubarb.  While we'll look forward to procuring these products regionally in mid to late May, it's important to remember here in the Midwest, it's sometimes necessary to think seasonally first and locally second. We can't all live and farm in California (Can you say "earthquake"?).

Our ground in still thawing this month, but we may still see some early pea vines, radishes and sweet white baby hakurai (or Japanese) turnips. These first spring items are typically tender and sweet enough to consume raw --but please wash them first!

For more on asparagus, including the wonderfully earthy and sweet white variety that we love to incorporate into our spring menu, click on this link:

 

All About Asparagus

 

Tips from the Fish & Meat Market                     
Typically here at the restaurant, our spring meat offerings include lamb and rabbit, two animals closely associated with the foraging and (let's say) frolicking to be done in the fresh new growth of the meadows and pastures.

Pastured lamb has such a sweet and grassy complexity to the flavor, it quite nicely complements other spring products, such as the traditional accompaniments of freshly-dug new potatoes or mint.  The assertive gamy flavor of the (cheap) imported Australian or New Zealand lamb does a horrible disservice to the real thing.

Rabbit -once people overcome their guilty associations with Bugs, kindergarten, or the iconic Easter bunny-is a wonderfully mild and moist (when cooked properly) meat, that pairs quite well with other spring harvests.  It's terrific with the aforementioned asparagus, or with practically any new tender herb.  I particularly like to pair it with the floral palate of the over-wintered lovage which sprouts before anything else here in the restaurant's kitchen garden.

For a brief piece on choosing to pay more for your (meats), click here:

http://www.sustainabletable.org/features/stories/avaluablelesson.html

Seasonal Drink
Spring Breeze

asparagusThis twist on a Mojito uses vodka infused with Kaffir lime, an ingredient most associated with Thai cooking. The aroma and unique flavor of the vodka, combined with the fresh mint, make this drink perfect on a warm spring day.
 
  • dash dry vermouth
  • 2 1/2 oz. Hangar One Kaffir Lime vodka
  • 1 oz. mint simple syrup (instructions below)
  • 1/2 oz. Cointreau
  • 1/4 lime, juiced
  • dash Angostura bitters
  • 1 bunch mint, unbound
  • 3 stems fresh mint, leaves picked

PREPARATION
Mint Simple Syrup:

  • Combine one cup sugar with one cup water and bring to boil
  • Reduce to simmer.
  • In separate pot, bring quart of water to boil and add tablespoon of salt
  • Prepare ice water bath: combine 3 cups ice with 3 cups cold water in bowl.
  • Submerge mint bunch in boiling water for 30 seconds, then strain and place immediately in ice.
  • Cool 3 minutes then strain, dry well, coarsely chop and place in simmering syrup.
  • Turn off heat and let steep until cool.
  • Strain. Discard solids. Reserve syrup in fridge. For best flavor prepare day before.

 Cocktail:

  • Combine Kaffir vodka, syrup, Cointreau, lime juice, and bitters in a cocktail shaker.
  • Stir or shake, then serve over ice, garnished with 3 stems-worth of fresh mint leaves.
Recipe of the Month
Green Asparagus Soup, Orange Crème Fraîche
makes four one-cup servings
asparagus 

1.5 lb  asparagus (large, 1-2 bunches), scales trimmed, bottom 1-1.5" removed and reserved

1    (green) shallot, finely minced

1/2  stalk celery, diced small

1     orange, zested, halved and juiced

1 T  unsalted butter, cubed

1 T  canola or other cooking oil

4     sprigs  fresh mint, leaves picked, stems discarded

4     asparagus spears, tips reserved for other use

1     organic carrot, peeled

½ c crème fraîche

3 T  sliced almonds, lightly toasted

1 T  almond Oil (opt.)

        salt and white pepper
  • Bring full 10" pot of water to rapid boil.  Prepare ice water bath -plenty of ice.
  • Whisk crème fraîche stiff with orange zest, salt and pepper to taste. Reserve.
  • Add 3 tablespoons salt to boiling water, then drop in asparagus spears. 
  • Count 20 seconds, then quickly remove asparagus to ice bath.
  • Add reserved bottom stem pieces to water and simmer 5 minutes.
  • When cool, dry asparagus, cut off and reserve 12 tips. Chop balance into ¼" pieces.
  • In 8" pot, heat oil. Add celery and shallot. Cook 2 minutes, until vegetables soften.
  • Add reserved orange juice, and cook together for additional minute.
  • Add chopped asparagus and stir to heat through 1 minute.
  • Add 2 cups strained asparagus water.  Bring to boil and remove to ice bath to cool.
  • When cool, blend in small batches to smooth puree, adding finely chopped mint leaves. (Note: you may also use immersion or "stick" blender).
  • For silkier soup, at this stage pass puree through fine-meshed strainer.
  • Place soup back in clean pot, bring to boil, and whisk in butter.  Season to taste.
  • Serve soup hot, in bowl garnished with crème fraîche, shaved raw asparagus and carrot, and toasted almonds and almond oil.
Another Think Piece - or two!
 

A couple of links for you, neither one relating to local or sustainable (phew!) but each thought-provoking in their own way.  The first is a Molly O'Neill piece on food porn, a product largely attributable (I feel) to the glamorization of chefs via the food channel.  The second link is a fun April Fools send-up of just such a cooking demo one might see on FoodTV.  Enjoy:


Bruce Sherman
North Pond -- Chefs Collaborative -- Green City Market
773-477-5845