News from North Pond |
October 2007 |
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News From North Pond
- This Saturday, October 6, from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. - we are thrilled to be hosting a brunch in honor of Alice Waters, who will be in town promoting her new book, The Art of Simple Food: Notes,
Lessons & Recipes for a Delicious Revolution. Though I can't be sure of the availability by the time you read this, please consider joining us to enjoy a special menu and meet our distinguished guest.
- The current issue of Saveur magazine is devoted entirely to coverage of Chicago, our toddlin' town. I wrote an essay for the ma
gazine and am flattered to have such stunning photos included in the piece, featuring five dishes (and recipes!) amongst the pages. Run out and find one on the newsstand, before they vanish. If you're available on Wednesday, October 10th, Saveur is hosting a celebration of the issue to benefit the Greater Chicago Food Depository. This exciting event will bring together many of the chefs and foods featured in the magazine. It will be held at the Chopping Block School in the Merchandise Mart and I'll be doing a demo of the halibut recipe featured in the magazine at 6:45 p.m. For more information, click here: Saveur Chicago Issue Celebration
- The restaurant has officially closed for lunch service until next summer. However, if you're set on (or limited to) daylight hours, please consider joining us for our weekend brunch, served every Sunday morning of the year from 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
- Go Cubs!
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Tips from the Green Market
As we move into the cooler months, heartier fruits and vegetables begin to dominate the market. As the weather chills, many think of squash and apples -- try the Grimes Golden or Northern Spy -- but some of the more interesting vegetables may seem a bit on the esoteric side to those unfamiliar. Beautiful watermelon (or beauty-heart) radishes become more readily available this month. These radishes are crisp and juicy when shredded or sliced thinly, and downright tender and sweet if glazed lightly in a pan and served alongside cooked meats or fish.

And some of the best onions of the year are out of the ground and curing safely in the storeroom. Seek out the mild Tropea (or torpedo) onion and the wonderfully complex, disc-shaped Cipollinis. Both are intended to be eaten whole - rather than as aromatic seasoning for other preparations -- and they stand marvelously mellow and rich on their own, delicious alongside grilled meats or as a supporting player in stews or vegetable mélanges. |
Drink of the Month The SnapApple
Celebrate the season with this delicious apple cider martini. Cheers!

2 oz. bourbon
1 oz. B&B
1 oz. reduced apple cider (start with 3 oz., reduce over heat to 1 oz., cool)
1/2 oz. simple syrup (optional)
1 slice apple
Combine all ingredients with ice and shake well. Serve in a martini glass with a floating slice of apple.
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Farm of the Month Iron Creek Farm, LaPorte, IN
Tamera and Patrick Mark, along with their three daughters, farm on property that has been in the family for four generations. They grow a variety of lettuces, tomatoes, beans, squash, and brassicas - to name just a few of their offerings - outdoors and in their hoophouses all year long. The Marks are committed to environmental stewardship and practice this by protecting and improving soil quality and composition and avoiding or reducing their dependence on non-renewable resources. Stop by and visit them on Wednesdays or Saturdays at the market. |
Watch Our Garden Grow!
Our October Garden
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Tips from the Fish and Meat Market Game Time
This month we begin to feature game on the menu, specifically pheasant and squab. While pheasant appears to be enjoying something of a Renaissance in this country - or at least in this dining room(!) - squab unfairly seems to get the annoying younger sibling treatment. Perhaps the association between pigeon (the actual bird we call "squab") on the girders under the elevated tracks and that lovely bird gracing the china in finer restaurants cannot easily be broken. But squab has a distinctive, assertive, and wonderfully gamy, rich flavor that is representative of the habitat in which the native birds feed and flourish - namely, the forest. When cooked past medium though, the meat can take on an overwhelming iron-like taste, not so delicate in flavor and almost characteristic of calf's liver or darker, stronger organ meat. We try to serve the only "wild" squab available in this country, which, ironically enough, comes to us from hunting parties in Scotland. Come in and try this magnificent little bird. But ask for it rare or medium rare to fully appreciate its nature. Just beware of the buckshot! For more on why we can't locally source wild, click here: The Dubious Calling Card of the Wild |
Roasted Squash and Apple Soup Serves six to eight
3 lbs. organic squash mix (kabocha, buttercup, red kuri, blue hubbard, etc.) 
3 Tbsp. canola or other cooking oil 1/2 tsp. salt 1/4 tsp. white pepper, ground 3 oz. carrot (approx. 2 pc.), peeled and diced small 2 oz. shallot (approx. 1 pc.), peeled and thinly sliced 6 oz. yellow onion (approx 1/2 pc.), peeled and thinly sliced 8 oz. firm apple, peeled, coarsely chopped 2-3 pcs. garlic, peeled, de-germed, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1/4 c. Madeira wine 5 cups chicken or vegetable broth 1/2 pint cream or yogurt 3 oz. butter, cubed salt and pepper
- Preheat oven to 375.
- Halve squash lengthwise and remove seeds. Coat with cooking oil, salt and pepper, making sure squash is coated well. Place flesh side up on a pan in oven. Cook approx. 1 hour, or until flesh is soft.
- Remove squash from oven and carefully scoop out flesh from "shells." Reserve.
- In medium size pot, heat olive oil over moderate flame. Add carrots, celery, shallot, onion, apple, and garlic. Stir while cooking for approximately 5 minutes, or until soft. Salt and pepper vegetables. Do not "color" by cooking at too high a heat.
- Add in Madeira wine and continue to stir until liquid volume is reduced by half. (about 2 minutes)
- Add in reserved squash and stir to mix. Add in chicken or vegetable broth and turn heat to high. Bring mixture to boil, then reduce to simmer and cook for additional 30 minutes
- Bend soup well with immersion and/or bar blender, adding cream to facilitate blending. For finer, silkier soup, pass puree through fine-meshed strainer.
- Place soup back in clean pot, bring to boil, and whisk in butter.
- Salt and pepper soup to taste, adjust consistency if necessary with additional broth. Serve hot, perhaps accompanied by parmesan croutons and/or finely chopped chives.
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