News From North Pond                                                            May 2009
















 
CURRENT/UPCOMING NORTH POND EVENTS
·      Friday, May 1st We (officially) launch our Facebook restaurant page. Check us out! Better late than never, I hope. Become a fan and write on our wall. Better yet, why not just come in for a meal now and again and let us know what you think...
·      Tuesday, May 5th We begin (anew) our dinner service on Tuesdays. Please consider joining us for a delicious meal most any Tuesday until the end of the year.
·      Wednesday, May 6th The Green City Market officially opens (softly) at its permanent outdoor home between Clark St. and Stockton Drive, just north of LaSalle (map). Come by to check out the super-early spring products available; and --
·      Saturday, May 9th The grand (whoop-it-up) public opening of the GCM happens, complete with the initial 10:30 a.m. chef demo by you-know-who! Not sure yet what it'll involve, but if you're in Vegas between now and then, I'd encourage you to put some cashola down on asparagus and radishes. Stay tuned. Or just show up and say you read the newsletter. Please?
·      Sunday, May 10th We still have (limited) slots available to fete your moms, grandmoms and sugarmoms for the annual Mother's Day extravaganza. We're once again offering the all-day prix-fixe three-course menu, served between 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.  Reserve now and show her how much you care.
·      Monday, May 18th Michael Pollan -- author, visionary, uber-advocate for all things critical to our fragile food system -- comes to town to sign copies of his latest book, In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto. Consider (SERIOUSLY) putting the date on your can't-miss calendar for this unique opportunity to meet the Man. Pollan visit
·      Saturday, May 30th Invaluable Sous-Chef and supremely talented, able, funny (and handsome) Danny Grant will marry his longtime sweetheart, smart, clever (and beautiful) Ellen Ganley. I'm proud to say they met here years ago, at the time both in the employ of North Pond. So it's (sometimes) fact that NP dreams do come true. Best to the remarkable couple!
·      Wednesday, June 3rd We will (once again) open for our summer lunch service. We'll serve the tasty victuals Tuesdays - Fridays, beginning each day at 11:30 a.m. Mark your calendars now.
 
Tips from the Green Market
Rhubarb

Though technically a vegetable, most of us are much more familiar with sweet applications of this delicious stemmy leaf. The cultivation of this vegetable traces back over 4000 years to its medicinal use in China. It has only been grown in this country since the early 1800s and was not embraced as a food until almost a century later. Today, of course, we cherish Rhubarb as a wonderful sweet and sour bridge from Winter's fruit cellar of apples and quince to the soon-to-arrive sweetness of Spring's strawberries, cherries and apricots.

Many know the leaves of the plant are dangerous to ingest, causing the tongue and throat to swell and preventing breathing. The hemispherical-shaped stalks - or petioles - can grow up to 18" long and 2" wide and are the part used in the most common preparations. And although most associate the deeper red petioles with sweeter flavor, color and sweetness in rhubarb are not necessarily related. The Victoria variety, for example, produces some of the sweetest stems yet appears as the greenest variety available.

The best (field-grown) rhubarb tends to come available in late May and June. Choose firm stalks, and avoid those too thick or too thin, as they can often times be too stringy. Most often sugar or sweet accompaniments, like strawberries, are necessary to make the excessively tart stems palatable; but remember not to over-sweeten the preparations for risk of losing the beautiful delicate and unique flavor of the rhubarb itself. Currently, we're featuring rhubarb with both foie gras and sugar doughnuts, and on a more conventional pastry plate with rose petal and almonds. Mmmmm.

Seasonal Drink
Rhubarita


1.5 oz Casa Nobles Blanco Tequila
1.5 oz Rhubarb Syrup (see recipe below)
1 T tangerine Juice
1 T lime juice
Club Soda
 
Rhubarb Syrup:
8-10 large stalks rhubarb (cut in ¼ -inch pieces)
1/2 c sugar
1 c water
 
1.    Bring sugar and water to boil; remove from heat and pour over rhubarb. Let steep 30 minutes (if desired, strain and repeat steps 1-3 for more flavor).
2.     Strain, discard solids, then reduce rhubarb syrup by half over low heat.

To assemble cocktail:
Fill highball glass with ice. Pour rhubarb syrup, then tequila, then juices over and top with soda. Garnish and serve.

Charity of the Month
Growing Power (773.486.6005)

Each year, we accumulate donations through our wine program for four deserving organizations. Their inclusion on our list is based on their work to help preserve diverse food choices, contribute to the local community, support local farmers, and help commit to a more sustainable future. This month we highlight another worthy contender:
 
What Will Allen started in 1993 in Milwaukee, as an organization to put local teens to work, has today evolved into a nationally recognized program with a global commitment to sustainable food systems. With offices in Milwaukee and Chicago, Growing Power serves and "feeds" both producers and consumers. 

Growing Power offers diverse training programs in areas ranging from anaerobic digestion of food waste, to community development, to value-added product development and distribution. Will Allen's 2008 MacArthur "Genius" fellowship award has brought well-deserved attention to the critical work he continues to do in the field.
Growing Power
 
Watch Our Garden Grow!

 



Tips From the Fish and Meat Market
Smelts

Rainbow Smelts: one of the real seasonal delicacies - and currently one of but a few safely edible ones - coming out of the Great Lakes. This small and beautiful fish, which grows most commonly only to 3"-4" length here in the upper Midwest, contains a sweet, succulent, flaky flesh in its striking silver and olive green body. Introduced to our watershed only as recently as one hundred years ago, they've flourished -- sometimes to nearly overabundance, threatening the native walleye population - and declined other times.

Nevertheless, they're still in safe supply and reproduce quickly enough to be a healthy (and delicious!) sustainable, local choice. Because the fish are relatively small by nature and short-lived, there is minimal risk of PCB contamination, something concerning with other fish from our waters.

They are relatively easy to prepare and shine when treated simply.  I find they are best left whole, dusted lightly with seasoned flour, cornmeal, and/or rice flour then quickly pan- or deep-fried in your fat of choice. When cooked properly, the small frames/bones become soft enough to eat, needing only lemons and remoulade or tartar sauce of preference. I have fond memories of introducing my then-two-year-old to the beauty and delicious wonder of picking up the small fried fish by their crispy tails and consuming them with sheer delight, head tipped back, mouth open, at our small kitchen table.

Now, of course, we're both a bit more grown up, and I'm serving them at the restaurant with a warm, smoked fingerling potato salad with lemon Gremolata.
He Who Smelts, Simply Melts
 Recipe of the Month
Asparagus and Mushroom Tart, Morel Cream
serves four - six

6 T  butter or olive oil
1     large shallot peeled and sliced thinly
1    small yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1    rib celery, thinly sliced
clove    garlic, peeled and minced
1.5 c    button mushrooms, washed and thinly sliced
3    eggs
3    egg yolks
2 c    whipping cream
12    spears large asparagus, peeled and pre-cooked
6-8 oz fresh Morel mushrooms, washed very well and dried on a towel
salt and pepper


·    Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Melt 4 T butter over high heat, and when foaming, add in the sliced shallot, onion, celery, garlic and button mushrooms.  Reduce the heat to medium, add some salt and pepper and gently cook the vegetables five - ten minutes until soft.
·    Add in 1½  cups of the cream, bring to a boil and then remove from heat.
·    Place the mixture in a blender and carefully puree the mixture for three - five minutes, until very smooth.  Set aside.
·    Cut the tips off the asparagus and reserve.  Cut the stalks into ¼" discs and divide them equally among six well-buttered 4" ramekins.
·    Beat the eggs and egg yolks together in a mixing bowl, and add in the reserved mushroom cream.  Beat well to homogenize.
·    Carefully ladle the mixture into the ramekins and place on a cookie sheet and place in the oven.
·    Bake for 40-50 minutes, or until a knife inserted into the center of one of the ramekins comes out "clean".
·    While the custards are baking, heat the remaining 2T butter in a pan and add in the cleaned and dried morels.  Salt and pepper them and cook slowly for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally so they don't stick or burn.  
·    When the morels seem quite soft to the bite, add in the remaining ½ cup of cream.  Turn the heat up and carefully bring the cream to the boil.  Reduce the liquid by about half its volume and season the mixture to taste.
·    Add in the reserved asparagus tops and set aside.

To serve, carefully unmold each custard in the center of a plate, spoon the morels and asparagus heads around the perimeter, and garnish, perhaps, with a small herb salad atop.
 
Farm of the Month
Seedling Orchard (269.227.3958)

Peter Klein bought the farm. Literally.

Back in 2002, when troubled by the fact that many of his favorite fruit vendors were retiring without turning over their businesses to the next generation, Peter took advantage of an opportunity to purchase a Michigan farm which grew the kind of fruit he cherished. Today, Peter's farm and business, Seedling Orchard, offers delicious varieties of fruit grown with respect to both its historical context and sustainable methodology. Seedling has done a tremendous job focusing on revitalizing specific varieties at risk of disappearing, while concentrating also on making a wonderful diversity of fruit and fruit-based products (ciders, smoothies) accessible and available to the public.

Check them out at the market or online: Seedling Fruit
Another Pithy Article / Think Piece (or two)

Here's a piece from across the Pond on the current state of our oceans' inhabitants
The Decline of Seafood

and in light of the recent swine flu (I mean H1N1) scare, an apropos piece Tom Philpott wrote some time back
Sow What?
 
Bruce Sherman
Chef / Partner North Pond
773.477.5845 
Chefs Collaborative Green City Market