Tips from the Green Market
Zucchini
Sometimes considered like Cinderella's wicked stepsisters -constantly and oppressively present and available-zucchini and other prolific tender summer squash are often equally reviled. These squash grow freely and contain a great deal of water, which tends to make their flavor what some consider insipid and others "subtle". In the past number of years, farmers (thankfully) have once again begun to embrace the heirloom, smaller and more variable-sized, shaped and textured varieties, those that tend to hold more interest visually and on the plate and palate. Types such as the Romanesca, round or sunburst squash allow for more diverse preparations and culinary consideration than the more ubiquitous and commonly available green and yellow tube-shaped variety. And although these latter two (most) conventional varieties can be quite delicious and versatilely used, even their more miniature manifestations are quite worthy of your attention at the stove.
One school of thought with this whole family is to fight the bland with the bold, to actually give character to where there is none, while the other philosophy is to tread softly, pairing lighter, delicate flavors with the nuanced ones of the vegetable. Matching either with stronger or softer flavor companions, I still find shorter or longer cooking time to be preferable, rather than an extended but not fully completed period which renders the vegetables mushy and far from palatable. A shorter time leaves them still bright and lively while a longer period allows their unique character to fully develop.
Try out a few of the great variety now available at the market to see which ones you prefer. And check out this month's recipe for a preparation to make the common varieties not so common...
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Farm of the Month
Tiny Greens (217) 328-9367
Bill Bagby, a classically trained music theorist and central Illinois native, began his Tiny Greens Organic Farm business after having spent time working with remitted cancer patients in New England and seeing the positive effect natural foods had upon their health and vitality. Today, more than 20 years after returning to farming, Bill's certified-organic Tiny Greens grows herbs and vegetables on 30 acres. At the weekly market, Tiny Greens also offers to-order pizzas and wraps, and this year even fresh tofu from Midwest-grown soybeans. Check them out in Lincoln Park, or online: Tiny Greens
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Drink of the Month
French Apricot
Here's a modernized, July-appropriate version of the classic French Martini.
1½ oz vodka
½ oz St. Germaine Liquor
1½ oz Apricot Nectar
Splash sparking Beaujolais or Champagne (optional)
Splash Egg whites
Lemon twist or edible flowers
Place all ingredients except for the sparkling in shaker and shake vigorously; strain into martini glass. Float sparkling over top if desired and garnish with the classic twist or an edible blossom. C'est bon!
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Charity of the Month
Jane Addams Hull-House Museum
773-413-5358
Each year, we accumulate donations through our wine program for four deserving organizations. Their inclusion on our list is based on their work to help preserve diverse food choices, contribute to the local community, support local farmers, and help commit to a more sustainable future. This month we highlight another worthy contender: Jane Addams Hull-House Museum.There are wonderful things cooking in the kitchen at the Jane Addams Hull-House Museum. Every Tuesday, for example, there's a get-together/public forum to discuss issues relating to food, food justice, sustainability, the environment and any host of other topics relating to us and our place and responsibilities in our community. It all takes place in a historically significant building, the one-time home for a diverse group of immigrants, reformers, writers and other thinkers critical to the development of our society. Important work continues to be done here; consider helping financially to allow it to continue. Hull House Kitchen |
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Tips from the Fish and Meat Market
Halibut Cheeks
Many people know of the fragile deliciousness of Halibut from the well-managed Pacific fishery, but how many of you are as familiar with the succulent cheeks of such creatures. Yes, the cheeks. As these fish are know to grow upwards of 600 pounds, the cheeks on even the 30-60 pounders can be quite a mouthful, if you know what I'm sayin'! In an effort not to waste any of the parts of the fish caught, some clever fisher way back when took his/her filet knife to their flatfish's face. Ouch but yeah, right? Thank goodness they did, for halibut cheeks are a real delicacy this time of year, when the boats in Alaska are  reelin' in the haul and harvesting the juicy cheek meat. The cheeks retain the moisture of the fish, yet have a richer flavor than the filleted body meat and possess a meatier firmness, bordering on the texture of skatewing or scallop. The fresh cheeks can often be poached or  sauteed, yet those previously frozen (or "refreshed" in commercial retail-speak) should most often be pan-browned and gently cooked through to avoid a stringy, dry puck. When we've been able to get them over the past month, we're serving the cheeks with our green garlic soup, pickled ramps, pancetta bacon and pumpernickel croutons. Not sure how long they'll be around, though... |
Recipe of the Month
Warm Zucchini and Goat Cheese Tartlet,
Black Olive Tapenade Oil
Serves four
2 T olive or cooking oil
2 large yellow onions, peeled, halved and thinly sliced
salt and white pepper
10.5 oz log fresh goat cheese
1 bunch fresh basil; tops saved, leaves thinly cut
1 sheet puff pastry sheets, available in grocery freezer section
2 medium size green zucchini
2 medium size golden zucchini
4 medium size plum tomatoes, heirloom if possible
1 fresh egg
extra virgin olive oil
¾ c cured black olives, pitted
6 anchovy filets, rinsed, dried
1 t dijon mustard
¼ c capers, drained and dried
½ c canola oil
¼ c extra virgin olive oil
1 T cognac
Preparation:
· Preheat oven to 425. Thaw puff pastry.
· Over medium flame, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in medium saucepot and add sliced onions. Salt and pepper, reduce flame to low and cook slowly for 20-30 minutes until mixture turns a rich golden brown color. Reserve*.
· Place goat cheese in mixer with paddle attachment and soften on low speed. Add sliced basil, pinch of salt and pepper and a bit of olive oil. Turn to medium to homogenize. Form a 1.5" diameter log and Reserve*.
· Place black olive paste ingredients in blender and puree. Reserve*.
· Lay thawed pastry out on counter and roll evenly to thickness of 1/8". Prick throughout with a fork, cut into 4"-5" circles and place, holes down, on parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Reserve*.
· Slice gold and green zucchini in even ¼" rounds.
· Heat large non-stick skillet over high flame and add thin coating of olive oil. Carefully add enough sliced zucchini to just cover bottom of pan, salt and pepper and shake the pan to quickly "wilt" the vegetables without cooking them through. Turn them out to napkin-lined plate to cool, and if necessary, repeat with balance of squash.
· Slice both tomatoes and goat cheese into even 1/8" rounds.
Now assemble the tarts:
· Place pastry circles on (wet) piece of parchment paper-lined cookie sheet.
· Beat egg and add tablespoon of water to it. Brush outer third of pastry circles with egg mixture.
· Leaving 1/8" border around circumference of pastry, carefully spoon thin layer of caramelized onion mixture in center of each circle.
· Carefully alternate three full sets of yellow round-green round-goat cheese-tomato on top of onion mix. Drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper and place in oven.
· Cook for 8-10 minutes, or until pastry puffs and browns around perimeter of tarts
· Remove and serve on plates surrounded by thin band of black olive paste. Garnish with reserved basil top and, perhaps, small herb salad.
* Can be made 1-2 days beforehand.
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