News From North Pond   August - September 2009

New (and Upcoming) Events

Apologies: busy busy busy summer prevented the timely issue of the August newsletter. So sorry. The crazy past month has forced me to put August and September into this combo platter of a missive. Now there are even more news and notes to bookmark:
  • On the 23rd of the month, there's an exciting party planned to take place outside of Red Light restaurant to benefit Three Sisters Garden. More than a dozen chefs will gather from noon to 3pm, offering some of their tasty summer treats in an effort to raise funds to allow Tracey and Kathe to upgrade their transportation. For more information or to buy tickets, please call 312.399.5585.
  • We're co-hosting a special lunch with Chicago's les Dames d'Escoffier in a tribute to Green City Market founder Abby Mandel. We'll be serving a special market-inspired -- aren't they all? -- three-course lunch (with wine, tax and tip included) at 11:30 a.m. on Wednesday, September 9. For more info and to make reservations, please follow this link.
  • On Sunday, the 13th of September, the Green City Market will hold its annual Harvest celebration at the magnificent Mettawa estate of Bill Kurtis and Donna LaPietra. A bevy of market-connected chefs - including even a celebrity chef or two from across the country! - will offer seasonal delights on the beautiful manor grounds. For more info - Harvest.
  • Chefs Collaborative National Summit takes place this September 15-16, right here in the Windy City. We'll have nearly two full days of exciting and thought-provoking workshops and events, taking place at Kendall College, the Shedd Aquarium and the Green City Market. Sign up now for the conference and to see what's already planned and who's coming, at CC Summit.
  • For two weeks this September, 9/9 - 9/23, the Green City market is again sponsoring a Locavore Challenge, testing local restaurants to see if they can successfully place at least one item on their menu composed entirely of ingredients procured from our local Midwest area. Check out your favorite     restaurants during this time frame, or better yet, try the challenge in your home kitchens. For more info, check back here.
  • On Monday, September 21, we're hosting a unique fundraiser for the Lincoln Park Conservancy North Pond Master Plan: a number of the Chicago cast of The Jersey Boys will be performing LIVE in the restaurant! For more information on this special evening, or to buy tickets, contact the LPC - starsbenefit@lpconservancy.org.
  • September 26th, I'll be doing (yet) another swashbuckling, pyrotechnics-filled demo, this time at the second annual Chicago Gourmet festival being held in Millennium Park. Come visit me at noon on Stage B in/near the pavilion for an entertaining and hopefully-not-too-stifling-yet-still-pretty-hot show. Click here for more info.
  • The Spence Farm Foundation will be holding a benefit Sept. 27 near Fairbury, Illinois, to raise money to help the organization teach more folks about all the benefits of sustainable small farms. An impressive array of Chicago's most dedicated and acclaimed chefs are donating their time and talent on this special Sunday: Spence Farm Foundation.
  • And finally, friend and fellow Chefs Collaborative national board member, Nicolette Hahn-Niman, has a new book out that I'd like to plug: Righteous Porkchop. In it, she captivatingly describes and documents her personal and professional experience in animal agriculture. Please consider picking up and reading a copy. For more information on Nicolette and the book, click here.
News from the Green Market
Sweet Corn

And finally, after a crazy-weird first half of summer, we get to enjoy one of my personal culinary highlights every year: Midwest corn-on-the-cob. Originally thought to hail from central America over eight thousand years ago, corn has become much more than a staple of the American diet (simply reference Michael Pollan's work). Corn - or corn byproducts - proliferate to such a degree today that it would be difficult to shop at most supermarkets and fill up the basket with products not containing any remnant or trail of corn in them.
 
Regardless, sweet corn is one of the true agricultural wonders of each and every summer. But this year's cooler-than-normal temperatures had significantly slowed down the growth and pushed the time back for harvest. Finally, the recent heat wave has accelerated the crop growth, maturing and sweetening the ears. Hallelujah! Try the Silver Queen or Peaches and Cream if you can still find them, or try one of the newest hybrids, Mirai, with its tender, juicy kernels offering intense sweetness.

Corn's sugars begin their rapid and unrelenting devolution into starch from the time they're picked, so beware and be aware. And while I feel it's true that really fresh corn requires NO cooking at all, most of you might have a hard time accepting that. So, go ahead and cook it if you must, but please don't overdo it! Most corn requires little more than a couple of minutes in a large pot of (salted) boiling water. More time than that renders the water too flavorful and the ears less than ideal. Few things on the grill rival fresh corn either, so think about tossing a few ears on the barbie. Often, just a squeeze of lime and a hint of Tabasco (and maybe a cold beer or three) is all that separates us from summer nirvana. 

We're currently serving sweet corn "risotto" with grilled rainbow trout, warmed cherry tomatoes and arugula pesto on the summer tasting menu. Consider coming in to give it a whirl...
Recipe of the Month
Sweet Corn Soup, Cinnamon Popcorn
Serves four - six

12 ears sweet corn
½ medium onion (3" diameter), diced small
1 stalk celery, diced small
1 small organic carrot, diced small
1 small firm apple, peeled, diced
1 clove roasted garlic
3 c chicken or vegetable broth
3 T unsalted butter, cubed
1 T canola or other cooking oil
1 fresh lime        
Popcorn
        Cinnamon, ground
        Cayenne Pepper, ground
Salt & Pepper
Tabasco

·    Bring a very large pot of water to boil.  Add in generous amount of salt then drop in shucked corn.  Count 1½ minutes from when water returns to boil, then quickly remove corn to ice water bath.
·    When cool, carefully cut corn kernels off cob. Discard cobs.
·    In medium size pot, heat oil over medium flame.  Add carrot, celery, onion, apple and garlic and stir. Season and cook for approximately 3-4 minutes, until vegetables soften without "coloring".
·    Add reserved corn kernels, and cook together for additional 2 minutes.
·    Add chicken or vegetable broth and turn heat to high.  After mixture boils, cook for additional 2 minutes.
·    Remove mixture from stove and place in small batches in a blender.  Blend liquid to smooth puree. (Note: you may also choose to use an immersion or "stick" blender). For finer, silkier soup, at this stage pass puree through fine-meshed strainer.
·    Place soup back in clean pot, bring to boil, and whisk in butter.  
·    Salt and pepper soup and add Tabasco to taste; adjust consistency with additional broth.  
·    In separate pot, pop popcorn kernels in peanut (or salad) oil.  When popped and still warm, toss in bowl with powdered cinnamon, salt and cayenne pepper.
·    With sharp knife, peel limes of all skin and pith. Cut out segments (between pith membranes) and cut into ¼" dice.
·    Serve soup hot, accompanied by cinnamon popcorn and lime dice in bowl.
News from the Fish & Meat Market
Chicken Oysters

What?! Chicken? Oysters? Fish or meat? Two of the most wonderful parts of each and every chicken, are its so-called "oysters" - two per animal - which can be found at the junction of the small of the bird's back and its hips. Although Rocky Mountain oysters are something else entirely(!), these chicken nuggets resemble oysters in size only, but have the succulence of dark (chicken) meat and the tenderness of the breast. The French name for these beauties is sot-l'y-laisse, or something akin to "what a fool leaves behind" - and with good reason! They're harvested with a spoon or paring knife and are often, indeed, left behind when many (in this country) butcher a chicken at home or in a restaurant.  Although they're technically a muscle, they're rarely used by the fowl, thereby retaining the soft and super tender nature.

We, as chefs, love using them because they're delicious and a perfect size and foil for just about anything from soup to nuts. In fact, they're delicious with either or both. What makes them special is the fact that each full-size chicken only produces two of these little gems. We're currently offering chicken oysters cornmeal-crusted, alongside our grilled polenta and soft-boiled egg with cherry tomatoes and ancho cream. Mmmmmmm.
Farm of the Month         
Becker Lane Organic
563-875-2087

Jude Becker grew up on his family's Iowa pig farm, one originally established back in 1850 by his ancestors. Today Jude raises organic pigs in a system developed in Europe over 15 years ago, largely allowing the animals to breed, forage and live naturally - outside - all year round. The animals are under Jude's supervision from birth to slaughter, not only assuring them a humane and happy, natural life in the fields, but preserving a culture and producing an animal with deliciously characteristic and well-marbled meat. In addition, Jude supplies Herb and Kathy at La Quercia with many of their extra special hams with which they make prosciutto, as well as animals for their unique "Acorn Edition" pig program, now entering Year lll.

Becker Lane Organic or for more reading, Boy Meets Pig.
Cocktail of the Month
August Mojito

4 oz Homemade Peach Nectar (see recipe below)
1½ ounces Ten Cane Rum
6 mint leaves
½ ripe peach (cut into small dice)
1 sugar cube
1 lime wedge
 
1.    In a tumbler glass muddle the sugar cube, mint leaves and lime. Add the diced peach and muddle gently just to release the juices but don't bruise the fruit.
2.   Add the peach nectar and rum; pour muddled contents into a martini shaker with ice and shake vigorously.
3.   Pour entire contents into a highball and top with a splash of soda water.
 
Peach Nectar
4 Peaches (cut into small dice)
4 oz Ten Cane Rum)
2 oz of sugar
 
Put all the ingredients into a gallon-size zip lock bag and refrigerate 48 hours. Strain the liquid, discard peaches.
Charity of the Month         
Healthy Schools Campaign
312-419-1810

Each year, we accumulate donations through our wine program for four deserving organizations. Their inclusion on our list is based on their work to help preserve diverse food choices, contribute to the local community, support local farmers, and help commit to a more sustainable future. This month as many head back to school, we highlight another worthy contender:

Healthy Schools Campaign (HSC) envisions a day when all students in our schools have equal and easy access to nutritious, healthy meals in a clean, safe and healthy school environment. HSC advocates on behalf of a diverse group of stakeholders for school change, to raise the general awareness and the conditions in which students, teachers and staff learn, eat and work everyday. In a time that many believe the content of much of the lunches served in schools contributes to the rampant spread of childhood diabetes in our society, HSC is working hard to change this. Healthy Schools Campaign
Watch Our Garden Grow

   
Yet Another Pithy Think Piece - Or Two

In this "Julie and Julia"-inspired renaissance of Julia Child love, some of you may not yet have read Michael Pollan's latest New York Times piece lamenting the state of (not) cooking at home. Also, here's a delightful 1989 NPR interview with Dame Julia herself which is not only sentimentally appealing in this time, but thoughtful and thought-provoking, insomuch as someone so accomplished in the kitchen could have become so without that true model that Michael Pollan asserts so many of us lack today.
 
Bruce Sherman                   
North Pond
773-477-5845