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News From North Pond October 2008 |
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Current / Upcoming (NP) Events
We've officially brought mid-week lunch service here on the pond to an end for the year. But remember, we're still open for our delicious (if I do say so myself!) three-course Sunday brunch all year. And don't fret, we'll be open for lunch again next June. Remember, as Indian summer (hopefully) nears, there are precious few days left to enjoy dining with our front room doors open, for soon it will be way blustery (think sweaters, not sweating). Consider coming in while you can still go coat-free.
The second week of October, I'll be lucky enough to travel to the Galapagos Islands to help on a Lindblad Expeditions/National Geographic tour, in partnership with my connection with Chefs Collaborative. I'll be cooking and talking about sustainable (food) issues as we travel around the sure-to-be magnificent islands (see the July '08 newsletter for seafood issues I'll certainly cover). Stay tuned as I hope to report back in November's newsletter on some of the things I saw and ate.
But -- if you can't wait to hear about it and other abfab info, I'm scheduled to be on the Martha Stewart Living radio show on the 29th of this month on satellite radio. Check your local listings, but I believe it's scheduled for 9am-ish Martha
I'd be remiss not to mention the importance of the upcoming presidential and vice-presidential debates. Please pay attention to the races in this all-important year and for some levity, check out this video SNL
And last, but hardly least, let's all put our most positive thoughts together and root for the home team here on the north side. We're hoping - after a century - that this year is indeed "next year." Go, Cubs, Go
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Tips from the Green Market
Brassicas
This month we tackle the autumn mustard family, known as the Brassicas. With members sharing hardy, leafy characteristics, they're perfectly suited to the cool-warm days and chilly nights of these upcoming few months. Broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts and kale will surely see themselves to important places on the fall menu here, as their robust personalities pair well with the bigger flavors we tend to use as the thermometer drops. Cauliflower -- the central flower bud clusters or "curds" -- grows in multiple colored varieties, such as stunning fuscia, rich yellow-orange, or even intensely fluorescent chartreuse green, in the case of the alien-looking Romanesco -- sometimes considered a broccoli.
In any case, the family members are truly delicious when fresh and treated appropriate to their own unique traits. Last week we made market broccoli into a delicious creamy puree on our charred ribeye plate, serving it with piccolo farro and just-cooked romanesco florets. Brussels sprouts are delicious quartered then oven-roasted with (Mmmmmmmm) bacon and a touch of sherry vinegar; while crisp just-harvested cauliflower can be easily and quickly pickled or even caramelized slowly over an extended period, allowing the buds to fall apart and absorb hazelnut butter in each and every crevice.
Brassicas
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Tips from the Fish and Meat Market
Quail
In many states, quail hunting season opens this month, so what better time to talk turkey about this wonderful small, succulent bird. These animals typically run 6-8 ounces each -- perfect for an appetizer here at the restaurant. They live only about a year, and tend to nest in medium density areas of mixed grasses and herbed vegetation. The Bobwhite is native to the Midwest, Iowa specifically, but its population has been in serious decline here since the early 20th century when intensive farming operations began to eliminate a great deal of natural habitat. The birds tend to forage on seeds and grains, corn and soybeans forming the major portion of the fall diet.
While the domesticated varieties (only) available to most foodservice outlets often lack a characteristic "wild" flavor -due to the nature of U.S. government regulations-they're still quite delicious on the plate and pair easily with many things. The eggs, too, are lovely accompaniments to many dishes, not just those utilizing the bird itself. We're  planning to grill the mostly-boneless quail, then glaze it over roasted sweet potato puree, alongside a brassica of-the-moment. Come in and give it a shot.
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Watch our garden grow!

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Drink of the Month
A-Pear-itif
- 1 1/2 oz Poire William (pear eau de vie)
- 1 1/2 oz pear cider (or pear nectar)
- 1 oz honey-star anise simple syrup*
- 1/2 egg white (optional)
- 1 ripe pear, sliced top to bottom
- gingerbread crumbs
Combine all ingredients in a shaker with ice and shake like crazy. Strain into a martini glass, dust pear slice with gingerbread crumbs and enjoy!
*To
make, combine 1/2 cups each honey and water and bring to a boil. Add
four star anise (broken into pieces), remove from heat, cover and let
steep for 30 minutes. Strain, cool and reserve.
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Recipe of the Month
Grain "Salad" with Apples, Almonds and Parmesan Serves 12
1 c couscous 1 c bulghur 3 T olive oil 3 c chicken stock or water 1 orange 1/2 lemon 1 firm, tart Apple (Northern Spy or Cox Pippin), peeled, ¼" dice ¼ c olive oil
½ c almonds, slivered, toasted 1/3 c Parmesan cheese, grated ¼ c red onion, very finely diced ¼ c fresh Italian flat leaf parsley, chopped 3 T fresh mint, sliced and chopped 2 T fresh chives, minced
2 dashes Tabasco salt and white pepper · Boil water or chicken stock, season to taste with salt. · Rinse bulghur with cold water. Drain. · Moisten "raw" couscous with (3T) olive oil.
· Rasp ½ lemon and orange. Reserve zest. Juice orange and half lemon. · In mixing bowl, pour 200 ml hot seasoned liquid over oiled couscous. Add orange and lemon juices and immediately cover with plastic wrap. Let rest 10 minutes.
· Sprinkle rinsed bulghur in remaining simmering liquid, stir, and cover. · Remove from heat after five minutes and allow to rest for 10 additional minutes. · Combine two grains, fluff with fork and cool on cookie tray.
· When cool, combine grains in mixing bowl with reserved zests and all other remaining ingredients. · Finish by seasoning to taste with salt and pepper.
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Charity of the Month
Michael Fields Agricultural Institute
Each year, we accumulate donations through our wine program for a number of deserving organizations. Their inclusion on our list is based on their work to help preserve diverse food choices, contribute to the local community, support local farmers, and help commit to a more sustainable future.
Although not on our current list, this month's selection is a worthy contender for your consideration. The Michael Fields Agricultural Institute has been working within the field of sustainable agriculture for nearly 25 years. As a think tank/policy institute with a practical hands-on agricultural training arm, the Wisconsin-based non-profit seeks to enrich food and farming systems through many of the programs they offer.
Call 262.642.3303 or visit their website: Michael Fields Agricultural Institute
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Farm of the Month
City Farm, Chicago, Il
City Farm, an initiative of the Resource Center, is a sustainable organic farm in the midst of Chicago. Literally. It straddles Clybourn and Division streets, bordered by the Cabrini Green projects to the west, yet grows some of the most delicious vegetables available in the city, through (exclusively) raised bed technology. It also serves to enrich the community by educating and training students on-site and providing exceptional and nutritious products to those in underserved neigborhoods. Come visit the farmstand through October at the farm (1204 N. Clybourn) Tuesdays, Thursdays or Saturdays, and at the Logan Square market Sundays.
City Farm
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(Yet) Another Pithy Article / Think Piece
Here's an oldie but a goodie for all those unfamiliar with Wendell Barry, one of the prophets of the food and farming movement. Or maybe it's worth a re-read for those of us who haven't in a while. The Pleasure of Eating
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