As the ground finally begins to thaw, the appearance of a few specific early wild herbs and vegetables offers a telltale sign of spring’s imminent arrival. Chief among them are watercress, ramps and –drum roll please — morel mushrooms. Watercress’s fresh and spicy bite contrasts well with the earthy sweetness of the first wild morels from the slopes of the Pacific Northwest. We’ll expect both by the end of the month, with the watercress typically coming from the clear running streams of southwest Wisconsin’s rolling hills.

Some believe the etymology of the word Chicago traces back to a Native American term for wild leek or onion. Wild ramps are just such a product and are foraged for four-five weeks this time of year in central and southern Illinois. The highly aromatic ramp tastes like a mellow cross between scallion and garlic. Here at the restaurant we may gently wilt and short-braise the pungent white bulb and stalk, while we may use the beautiful tapered green leaf to enrobe and steam delicate fish. Mmmm.

Perfection in a shell, indeed. Fried, poached, scrambled, shirred, soft-boiled, stuffed, and on and on and on. Talk about versatility. Wow. Simply consider its aesthetic beauty. Then add in its divine taste and voluptuousness, and try to imagine life in the kitchen without it. Impossible.

We always offer farm-fresh eggs here at the restaurant, though not always where most Americans expect it, but instead as a dinner menu appetizer. The current menu features a poached egg over warmed Dungeness crab, with a mandarin and smoked caviar butter, and topped with a delicate chervil salad and waffled potato chip.

Among many other attributes, eggs vary in color and size, as do we. Ask your farmer things about how his/her hens are raised: are they pastured and what do they eat, for example. An average laying hen – typically the Rhode Island Red or Barred Plymouth Rock—can lay one egg every 24 hours or so. Here at the restaurant, we tend to get our eggs within 48 hours of them being laid, while the industrial white variety found in most grocery stores have been sitting around for weeks or even months sometimes. For some more basic facts about eggs, check out:

Each year, we accumulate donations through our wine program for four deserving organizations. Their inclusion on our list is based on their work to help preserve diverse food choices, contribute to the local community, support local farmers, and help commit to a more sustainable future.

Seed Savers Exchange is a nonprofit, membership-based organization that stores and shares heirloom garden seeds with the community. Saving seeds is a vital step in preserving heirloom varieties of our agricultural heritage for future generations.

The Exchange has built a network of people committed to collecting, conserving and sharing heirloom seeds and plants, as well as educating consumers about the value of genetic and cultural diversity. One of Seed Savers’ annual publications is the Seed Savers Yearbook, which makes available the seeds of more than 11,000 rare varieties of vegetables, fruits and grains.

Now is the time of year to consider and purchase seeds for the upcoming growing season. The magnificent assortment of seeds available through Seed Savers should satisfy anyone looking to design or complement their garden this spring. We include their seeds in the little seasonal packets we offer our guests upon the completion of their evening meals here at the restaurant.

Chicago winter doesn’t give up easily. This cocktail is sure to warm you on those lingering cold nights. Add some mint syrup or green sprinkles to the garnish, and it becomes a perfect addition to your St. Patrick’s party menu..

Ingredients

• 6 oz. hot coffee
• 1/2 oz. Irish whiskey
• 1/2 oz. Grand Marnier
• 1 oz Irish cream liqueur
• whipped cream
• toasted almonds
• grated orange zest

Can you feel it? I think I can. Of course I’m talking about spring and even if there’s still snow on the ground, we live in Chicago and the calendar tells us it’s only weeks away! That means green things. Finally.

There are a few notable events and dates this month as we gear up for the onset of heat and (help me!) premature shorts and tank tops.

• Obviously, March 21 looms large, as the first official day of the new season. While everyone needn’t run out and buy radishes, perhaps a star on the calendar would be appropriate.
• March 23-24 sees Sustain’s familyfarmed.org putting on an EXPO for the purpose of connecting Midwest organic farmers with consumers and other industry buyers. I’ll be doing a sure-to-be-exciting cooking demo on Saturday at 11:00 a.m. More information is available at the link below.
  
• Looking forward to April, as I’m sure you must be already, don’t forget to reserve a table now for our special Easter Sunday Brunch. This year, we’ll be celebrating on April 8th, serving from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. with a special three-course souped-up(!) menu, which typically begins the rollout of the NP spring dishes. Call today as bookings are already filling quickly.

Marty and Kris Travis farm on property that has been in Marty’s family for over 175 years, dating all the way back to his great-great-great-great grandfather. They’re in the midst of restoring a dozen of the original buildings on the grounds in order to use them once again, and have created a foundation to oversee educational programs on the farm. We receive our first few weeks’ wild ramps, as well as some of our eggs from Spence Farm, and encourage you to visit the farm to share in the history and the future that Marty and Kris are working so hard to preserve.

In case you missed it, here's yet another thought-provoking Michael Pollan piece about the nature of our "unique" food system.