Tips from the Green Market
Autumn Greens
Wow. We're already approaching the end of the year. Unbelievable. They say that time accelerates as one ages, but I'm inclined to blame this one on global warming.
As we head into these final couple of months of 2007, we're at the height of hearty braising greens season. Fall spinach is in its prime, and other full-flavored greens won't get much better. Try the Italian broccoli green, Spigariello, for a change of pace, a plant grown for the sweet and earthy leaves rather than the flowery bud. And just in the last 5 years I've realized how remarkable kale -specifically Lacinato or Dinosaur kale-can be when treated the right way. Many people only (sadly, inappropriately) associate kale with the phosphorescent stuff gracing the salad bars or garnishing plates at the local Perkins. But when braised with a touch of sherry vinegar, chicken stock and fat (butter, olive oil), the tough green transforms into something tender, sweet and happily and easily digested -hardly something only to consider planting around the perimeter of the driveway. |
Drink of the Month
Autumn Dirt-ini
Before you pop that bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau, have a pre-turkey martini that will get your taste buds going.
3.5 oz North Shore Gin No. 6
.25 oz marinated olive juice
3 goat cheese-stuffed olives
1 rosemary sprig
Marinated olive juice:
Combine one cup olive brine (liquid from olives) with:
1/2 tsp fresh thyme
1/2 tsp fresh rosemary
1/2 tsp fresh marjoram
1/2 tsp fresh oregano
1 fresh bay leaf
Cover and refrigerate for three days. Strain juice.
Stuff olives with a favorite herbed goat cheese. Strip leaves from bottom half of the rosemary sprig and use to skewer olives. Combine all liquid ingredients, and shake well over ice. Serve up in a martini glass, garnished with rosemary-speared olives. |
Charity of the Month
IATP
(612) 870-0453
Each year,
we accumulate donations through our wine program for four deserving
organizations. Their inclusion on our list is based on their work to help
preserve diverse food choices, contribute to the local community, support local
farmers, and help commit to a more sustainable future.
The
Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy (IATP) was founded in the mid-1980s
in response to the crisis faced by family farmers fighting to survive despite
unrealistic production expectations and flawed national agricultural policies.
The IATP documents rural issues and proposes policies to benefit farmers,
consumers, farm communities, and the environment. Among their work, they monitor the impact of
genetically engineered crops; they work to stop the overuse of antibiotics in
both agriculture and aquaculture; they work globally, advocating fair trade
policies; and they develop economic models to include the use of clean energy
and land preservation.
IATP
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Farm of the Month
Tomato Mountain Farm and CSA
Chris Covelli and Christa Barfknecht have been farming organically for 12 years. They raise  hundreds of varieties of vegetables, herbs, berries and flowers on their 12 acre property, just 20 miles south of Madison. And in addition to the fabulous fresh products they offer through their markets and CSAs, Chris and Christa make and sell some of the most delicious prepared (tomato!) jams, salsas and soups available at the Green City Market. Come by and try a jar --or three!-- for the hungry and discerning holiday crowds sure to be stopping by your place this month.
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Our Autumn Garden
Sage
Arugula
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Tips from the Fish and Meat Market
A Less-Familiar Fish
Arctic
Char. Huh? Yes, Arctic Char is a beautiful and delicious
fish now gracing the fall menu here on the pond, a fish native to high mountain
freshwater lakes and related to both trout and salmon. Char has a beautiful orange-rose colored
flesh, a delicate texture and a sweet and mild taste that pairs well with many
other ingredients and flavors. Most Char
available commercially in this country is farmed, raised in various aquaculture
systems, some even grown out in retooled mines in West Virginia. Currently, we're offering this succulent fish
slow-roasted with an ancho butter, on a bed of roasted delicata squash and
braised kale with a swoosh of toasted pumpkin seed-carrot puree. Perfect for those cool autumn nights! For a little more on char, click here.
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Recipe of the Month
Braised Lamb Shank with Lentils
As the weather turns colder at night, this month I offer a recipe for a comforting (and delicious!) spice-braised lamb shank.  Ingredients
4 1 lb fresh lamb
shanks,
trimmed,
frenched
2 c Geürztraminer
wine
1 c virgin olive oil
1/3 c fresh ginger,
peeled, thinly-
sliced
8 garlic cloves, peeled and degermed
1/3 c coriander seeds, whole
4 cinnamon sticks, broken in half
3 Tbl fennel seeds, whole
2 tsp whole black peppercorns
4 green cardamom pods, whole
1 tsp red pepper flakes
1 large yellow onions, peeled,
thinly-sliced
4 med. carrots, peeled, thinly-sliced
2 rib celery, sliced
1 orange, cut into ¼" wheels
1½ c French green Puys lentils
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1" rounds
1 sm. yellow onion, peeled, halved (root kept intact) and studded with
4 cloves
1 rib celery, quartered
2 garlic cloves, peeled, halved and
degermed
4 slices smoked bacon (4 oz), each quartered
1 delicata squash, peeled, seeded and diced into 1cm cubes
2 bosc pears, peeled, cored and diced
into 1cm cubes
3 plum or roma tomatoes, peeled, cored
and diced into 1cm cubes
1 Tbl flat leaf parsley, thinly sliced
1 tsp chives, finely chopped
5-6 c chicken stock
Preparation
In large mixing bowl, combine all ingredients from wine through orange.Place lamb pieces in bowl, and toss well to thoroughly-coat meat.
- Place shanks and marinade in Ziploc bags devoid of as much air as possible, and place in refrigerator for 36-48 hours.
- On day of meal, heat oven to 300.
- Carefully extract lamb pieces from marinade, cleaning off any pieces of vegetables or spices clinging to the meat. Reserve marinade.
- In oven-proof pan just large enough to accommodate lamb, place 3 tablespoons canola or peanut oil and heat over high flame.
- Salt lamb pieces on all sides, and when oil begins to smoke, carefully place shanks in pan. As underside browns (2'-3'), carefully turn and brown other side.
- Repeat with "third side" and when fully brown, remove meat to platter.
- Carefully pour reserved marinade into pan and stir with heatproof spoon to scrape any brown bits formed on bottom of pan.
- Cook mixture 2-3 minutes, and then spread evenly on base of pan and place lamb pieces and rendered drippings on it.
- Cover lamb just to top -- and no more -- with the chicken stock. Actual amount will vary with size of pan and size of shanks.
- Bring mixture to boil; then place piece of aluminum foil in pan, pressing down to touch top of meat.
- Place pan in oven and cook for 2½-3 hours, until meat pulls easily away from bone.
- Remove from oven and allow to cool 15-30 minutes, before carefully-removing meat and straining vegetables from cooking liquid. Reserve meat. Discard other solids.
- Place liquid in narrow receptacle and chill, to allow fat to separate and solidify. Skim.
- Marry meat back with de-fatted jus and reserve.
- For lentils, place in small pot and cover with 2 cups cold water.
- Bring to boil, then immediately strain and rinse lentils with cold water.
- Place par-boiled lentils back in new pot with all other ingredients, and bring to boil.
- Strain any impurities which may rise to surface; then simmer for 40 minutes.
- When tender and liquid has evaporated, turn contents of pot out to shallow roasting pan and discard all solids but lentils. Make sure to account for cloves and garlic!
- Add 1 teaspoon of salt to mixture and place back in pot.
- For service, gently reheat lamb shanks in their liquid, at no higher than a simmer.
- Heat lentils with ½ cup of lamb liquid and place squash dice in mixture.
- Cook 3-4 minutes until squash barely cooked, then add pear dice.
- Heat additional minute before adding tomatoes, parsley and chives. Reseason.
- Portion into 4 large-rimmed bowls, place a hot lamb shank in each, and ladle ½ cup lamb broth in each bowl.
- Finish with drizzle of olive oil around perimeter of each bowl, garnish and serve.
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